Lady Long Rider: Alone Across America on Horseback by Bernice Ende, 2018 (ISBN no. 978-1-56037-722-1)
Imagine packing up your favorite horse, with a map and a dog, and riding from Montana across 2,000 miles of unfamiliar territory to visit your sister in Albuquerque. This was exactly what Bernice Ende decided to do for her first long ride in 2005 at age 50. As she writes poetically in “Lady Long Rider,” her gripping memoir of her midlife travels on horseback, she was so nervous that she cried “with trepidation dripping down my cheeks.” Yet this amazing woman seems thrived on the effort it takes to pack up camp each morning, ride 20 miles, and stop to set up camp every night.
Of course, she didn’t start out cold. She grew up on a dairy farm in Minnesota, so was always around animals as a little girl, riding her Welsh pony by age 5.
Bernice is now a member of the International Long Riders Guild, the world’s first international association of equestrian explorers and long-distance travelers. An equestrian long ride, by definition, must cover 1,000 continuous miles. There are only a handful of long riders scattered around the world, and Bernice is a standout even in this elite company.
No other female equestrian has completed as many journeys, ridden as many miles, or spent more years in the saddle. She is the only long rider in history who has ever ridden round-trip from coast to coast in a single ride, taking two years and covering 8,000 miles! This length of journey is incredibly difficult logistically, physically, and emotionally. Yet Bernice cuts quite a confident and comfortable figure on her ponies of Mongolian heritage.
I first met her in 2018 while I was running my bookstore, Black Cat Books, in Truth or Consequences. I looked up and saw her riding one horse and leading a pack horse along Broadway. I burst out the front door to invite her to come in for a cup of coffee and to let her rest her horses in the store’s large backyard. Her animals obviously always come first with her.
Bernice’s open-heartedness is inspiring, and you find yourself doing anything you can to support her remarkable efforts. I was almost ready to go with her, myself! Fortunately, reading her memoir allowed me to experience her adventures vicariously while learning more about her unusual life story.
From 1973 to 1993, Bernice taught classical ballet and related dance exercise programs in Minneapolis, Portland, Seattle and San Francisco. Her interest in ballet was sparked as a young girl by having seen the Lipizzaner stallions perform and admiring how they and their trainers worked together with such graceful elegance. Interestingly, her experiences and talents in ballet helped prepare her mentally and physically for dressage.
Bernice met her husband in Washington state, but after they bought a vacation cabin in Trego, Montana, they drifted apart and divorced. Bernice stayed on, establishing a dance studio in Trego. On very cold days, she would have to haul red coals from the log cabin’s wood stove in a garbage can lid and slide them under the car so it would start to make the trip to a second dance studio she had started in Whitefish 40 miles south.
Horses re-entered her life in Montana, and many of her ballet students also participated in her riding program at her cabin.
But somehow, all this wasn’t enough. One day, the idea of a long ride came to her while training two horses, riding one and leading another with her dog, Claire. A vision flooded her being—of herself packed up on an unfamiliar horse, traveling across a desert, all dusty and worn. When she couldn’t shake the desire this created in her, she set out, as prepared as she could get herself.
The long riding life Bernice chose is very isolating, and we are all beginning to know how lonely that feels. But it also allows time for major introspection, which Bernice seems to need. She says, “I’ve come to know myself in the absence of others.” I think Thoreau would agree with her.
She took inspiration from the stories of the very few previous lady long riders. Women like Alberta Claire, who in 1912, rode 8,000 miles in a circuitous route from Wyoming, along the west coast, ending up in New York City in support of the women’s suffrage movement and for the right to ride astride.
By the time she wrote her memoir, she had logged seven long rides, covering 29,000 miles in 13 years. Her memories of her many encounters are quite vivid, assisted by her journaling, while she remains an impartial witness to the diversity of American life.
The sympathetic characters who befriend her come to authentic life. Arriving in Pie Town, NM, at the beginning of a windy blizzard, Bernice was running a fever, but had to keep dismounting periodically to scrape the packed snow from her horse’s hooves. She finds Peggy Rawls, the owner of the Daily Pie Town Café, at work. What a relief for Bernice, as well as the reader, to open the door and be greeted by the aroma of baking bread and pies. “I was smelling HOME!” she says. But the most harrowing of her stories by far is the chapter, “The Night of the Black Stallion,” relating an attack late on a moonlit night by a wild horse, squealing with bared teeth.
Each colorful chapter begins with a relevant quote from a variety of sources, then is segmented into digestible subheadings and peppered with her personal treasury of black and white photos. The stories of her richly experienced life are told with warmth, economy and readability. Having met her, I know that that is how she moves through the world, with a smooth efficiency, making it look easy.
These irresistible, heartfelt tales will lift your spirit. Come along on these wonderful rides with Bernice.
Editor’s Note: In late October 2020, Bernice was inducted into the Montana Hall of Fame, which honors those who have made an impact in their part of the state and represent Montana’s authentic heritage for future generations. “She embodies the pioneer, can-do spirit characteristic of those who have created our great state,” her induction stated. “Bernice has put Montana on the map from astride her horses.”